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For details of the places I visited in Vietnam along the Ho Chi Minh Trail, with GPS Coordinates, see my book Vietnam Caves.

For details on motorbiking in Vietnam and Cambodia, from buying and selling a motorbike, to border crossing, see my book Motorbiking Cambodia & Vietnam.

 

Last night I only managed to fall asleep by about 11 as it was Saturday night and it is party night for backpackers. The places across the road played music that vibrated my room.

So it was with sleepy eyes that I reluctantly drag myself out of bed at 5 am this morning. I have according to Jon’s schedule a 13 hour drive ahead. (I think he fell asleep along the way as it was not that long if I kept on driving at the speeds i normally do, but fate had other plans for me.)

My plan was to get out of town at about 5:15, and have breakfast on the road. However, when I get downstairs, not one of the four ladies that speak english are there. Only a man that does not speak any word English. He gives me my bill, and i disagree, but he refuses to adjust the bill.

The problems are, (which i found out later is common scams), is that I booked online and paid a deposit. Firstly they refuse to accept that i paid a deposit, and charge me the full rate, plus the rate they charge me is more than what i was quoted online. Then, the price for my washing is ridicules. I have been on the road two weeks now, and know other places charged me 30K vnd. There were no price stated what washing costs (okay my fault, but one should be able to trust a hotel no to rip you off), and i gave in three pants, four shirts, some socks and underwear. I was charged 140K for that, the next day i gave in one pants, and a shirt, for which i was also charged 140K. So i was charged 280K for washing alone, a nights stay. I refuse to pay, and have to wait until a lady comes in at 6 that can help me.

I worked out from their charge that the conversion they use is 21666 per $1. after showing my online booking and getting hot, the lady eventually agrees to use the online rate, and accept that i paid a deposit already. However now she uses a rate of 22 to convert the new price, upping what i owe them. The washing i just had to swallow. Any way, move on, be happy, another tip for my travel book, positive thinking.

Not long out of town, i spot a favorite breakfast stands, and order two rolls with egg on. The owner gives me green tea as i eat, and then makes me a special milkshake for the road. Basically milk and condense milk in a plastic bag with a straw in, very nice.

Right, get on the road. I spot a truck that advertise some fruits as it drives.

I had the option to go back down a few miles, then join the main road, and come back up. Or, just cut across on a smaller road. Jon’s plan shows to take the larger road, but that adds some miles to the trip. I decide to take the smaller road, which i hope would be more scenic. I knew there would be a chance that the road would not be in a good condition, but it turns out that it is not to bad. A bit bumpy but i manage 50 to 60km an hour. However, the scenery is just amazing once i pass the small towns.

I come to a crossing in a small town, and drive up and down as the maps do not match my GPS position at all. I had it before that it was off a bit, but now it is out by 90 degrees. I follow the road that I think I should be on, and the GPS is showing I am driving 90 degrees away from the road. I drive up and down for about 10 minutes in town looking for a possible side road, but find none. I spot a Yamaha dealer and ask them to retune the bike. 10K, later, it runs a lot better. I ask them for directions, and they confirm the road two blocks on passing through the town is the one I should be on. (This is all done by hand signals).

I take the road, and a few minutes down spot a restaurant with backpacker bikes outside. As i stop, i a guide from a tour company comes up to me. I ask him for directions and he confirms it is the right road. There is apparently only one road here. He however tells me that it is a very long ride to the town i am aiming for. I reply that it is okay, feeling like the biker must have felt when i told him it is far a few days back when he told me the town he was aiming for. However i know Jon my friend did it with his parents, and i have consistently beat his time by 3 or so hours.

So, i take on the road. I drive hard, and it shows on the gas usage. About 100 km and i have to stop for fuel. I decide to fill the 5L can i have been carrying along, that I am only suppose to need tomorrow.

Small town I refuel.
As i refuel i hear a bus honking as it comes along a side road. It stops at the intersection across from the station, drops off two people, wait like 5 seconds, then pull away again. I guess that is the bus stop, and if you are not on time, to bad, see you next week.

A short distance later, I come to a nice mountain resort, they have an eagle on their wall.

I basically ride along the river, very nice views.

As I ride along, I spot two backpacker bikes along the road, next to a waterfall, and pull over. Here I meet Patric and his guide Vuon.

They tell me about a pool just a little up by the waterfall, that you can swim in. I head up, but decide to just wash my face to cool off.

They are going to the same town as me, but are planning to eat lunch in a town half way. I want to get to the town, and decide to go ahead on my own.
On the way on a steep uphill, however, the bike just totally bogs down and dies. The fuel reads 1/4 tank. We are still 45 km from the town they said they were going to have lunch. I crank the bike and it sputters to life just as Patric and Vuon pass me. As the bike is running, they go ahead. I back off a bit, as I am not sure why the bike died. I do however think that the low fuel on the steep uphill caused the problem. We are running downhill, and I manage to catch up to them, and pass them as they stop for a rest. Soon the bike starts to have no power, and i stop to refuel, now glad I filled the 5L can. The tank is supposed to be 4.9L, and the 5L can almost full, goes all into the gas tank of the bike. Thus the gauge reading 1/4 tank is wrong.

Patric and Vuon pass me as i refuel. Once i am on the road again, the bike boggs down once again soon after i get on the road, but is fine from there. Possibly left over air in the lines, not sure. I run the bike flat out, getting 90 to 100 with a strong headwind on the straits, but do not manage to catch up to them. As i pull into the town, I look around for their bikes, but do not see them. I do however see a 4 backpacker bikes at a small roadside shop, and pull over. It is a touring company (actually opposition to Vuon, which i find out later.) They are eating outside, and confirm the food is good. However, they are stiff and i get the feeling i am not welcome, so i go and sit inside.

It is basically a family eating at a table inside, and they ask me if i want food. (mmm, let me think about that one.) She says 50K, but i hear 15K, and accept. Then the lady walks over and puts a plate together from the food they are eating, that i find funny. there is to much spice in, so i just eat a little rice and meat, then want to go. The other bikers have left already, and the leader did come in and say good luck to me, so cool on them, but i still did not feel welcome at their table. (I have a feeling it is more because one couple had problems starting their bike, and i could see the bloke and his girlfriend was not happy. The bikes where also minks, two stroke old bikes, that are noisy, creasy, uncomfortable to ride on the road compared to what Patric is riding on as a rental tour bike.)

I pay my bill by giving 50K, and expect change, the lady wait, expecting more money from me as i took a ice tea as well. It is then that i find out the food alone was 50K. Oops.

Just as i pull away, I spot a gas station and pull in to fill the bike and my 5L can up. Suddenly Vuon pulls in with his bike, also refueling. He informs me they are having lunch 200 meters down the road, aahhh, and says i must come and join them. I refuel, then go find them. Me and Patric hit it off, an aussy and a saffer, and we talk bikes, road trips, bikes, road trips.

Vuon says all the hotels are basically full, but if i want, he is getting a room with 3 beds, and i can share with him for $7.5 while Patric has his own room. I take it and hook up with them.

We have a blast and I take some pictures and a video as we go along. On the way we go through two tunnels. The first one i stop to take a picture, and then the second one i think it is a good idea to film, however, this one is longer, and with the camera in my hand, i cannot switch on my headlights, so all i can do, is follow Patric’s tail light, hoping i do not hit anything. Check out the video here.

Cell calls are important on the road. Hands free kit ha ha ha.

They go slow, so i film a bit, check it out here and here.

When i was riding alone, I got like 100 or so km on a tank. Following them, at a slower pace, we did 110 km to the next town on 3/4 tank. mm so slower riding saves fuel, but is boring ha ha ha.

We pull into the hotel, and have a drink and a rest. Not long after, the other biker group that i wanted to hook up with also pulls in. Imagine their surprise when they see me with Vuon. You had your chance to invite me to hook up mate, and did not.

Nice room

Tomorrow we will go to the helicopter museum, where they will head back, and i will carry on, with the most remote part of the trip. 200 km of no gas stations. Well, fill the can, and keep it at 70km/h or i will not make it. 🙂