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For details of the places I visited in Kampot, Kep, and Sihanoukville, with GPS Coordinates, see my book Kampot, Kep and Sihanoukville.
Got up early this morning to catch my minibus to Sihanoukville. The hotel has a 24 hour reception desk, but when I got downstairs, there was no one at the desk. I decided to walk outside, and it is then that I saw the hotel manager. On the front porch of the hotel was a small bed, where I had often seen the hotel manager and his wife eat lunch. I had thought it to be just a place for them to eat outside. Now I saw the real reason for the bed. The hotel manager was fast asleep outside, alone. The 24 hour service is you, waking him up when you arrive at the hotel. I left him alone and watched the sun rise over Kampot for the last time on this visit.
The manager woke up as the first rays of light gently touched him and we started a conversation. The hotel used to only have local guest, but was doing badly. He had just put the hotel on bookings.com, and we were basically his first non Cambodian guests. He asked me for some advice, and I helped him out a bit about what foreigners would let slide and what not. Such as toilet paper, that is not a standard thing in Cambodian homes, but is immediately missed by a foreigner.
After a while, I got a bit worried as my taxi had not arrived yet. I have done many trips around South East Asia, and know they are often 10 to 15 minutes late, but this was now about 25 minutes. The manager called and as normal was assured they are on their way. A few minutes later, a guy on a scooter raced into the hotel parking lot. He was there to pick me up. Jup, they had forgotten about me and had sent whoever they could grab to go pick me up. Luckily I had known better when I started the trip and only packed a 55L backpack, else we would have had a problem fitting on the scooter if I had a large Bag or suitcase.
My left hand was sore from hurting it after riding with the kid that guided me a few days ago. I had held onto the grab handles on the backseat, and managed to twist my wrist as we went though a pothole he had missed. So now I was only holding onto the grab handle with one hand, while this lunatic zipped though traffic to try and catch my bus. If I had a larger or heavier backpack, they weight would have ripped me off the backseat as the driver swerved between cars and around frightened pedestrians.
Eventually we made it to the minibus, having had a few close calls. I am sure there are a number of people back there than need new underwear, and if this was my first lift on a motorbike, i would have needed a change as well.
The minibus was surprisingly reasonably new, and the air conditioner worked. The trip to Sihanoukville is not long, as the road to there is very good and it being only around 117km. We stopped once for a wee break and some snacks. If ever you are on a tour in South East Asia, and they stop at a place to eat, you can almost bet the place next door is about half price. In this case, there was a small market next door. The place we stopped at asked $1 for a small bunch of bananas, where i got the same bunch in the market for 25c (1000 Riel). After a 15 minute rest, we were on the road again. To my surprise, we passed a tollgate. This is one of very few operational in Cambodia.
Toll road on the way to Sihanoukville from Kampot.
After some distance, we passed by Sihanoukville airport. As far as i know, there are no international flights to the airport, only local flights.
Sihanoukville airport from the main road passing it.
Eventually we arrived in Sihanoukville. And as standard, we are not dropped off at the bus station (which is close to my hotel), but at the tourist spots where eager tuk tuks and taxies await us.
Serenity road, Sihanoukville
In Sihanoukville, tuk tuks have started a price fixing mafia, and it is difficult to find a cheap tuk tuk. I am offered a ride for $8 for the short 5 minute ride to my hotel. I look over my shoulder and see a lion statue with some well, big balls.
Golden Lion Statue
I wave the tuk tuk away and get the “you will not find a better deal” standard ploy. I walk about 20 meters up backpacker road (real name is Serenity road), and find a shop renting motorcycles. They charge $5 a day, but i negotiate them down to $4 a day if I take the motorcycle for two days. However, i then bargain with them to return the motorcycle on the third day, before midday, as it was about midday at the time. They agreed. So i got a motorcycle for almost 3 days, for $8.
The red Honda scooter on the left is the one I chose.
After renting a motorcycle, I walked across the road for a bite to eat. I got myself a cup of coffee that comes with a piece of bread. Mm, well that piece of bread may fill me up.
I head to my hotel, and find it to be right by the port. The hotel add said it has a view of the ocean. Mmm, yes I think I see the ocean in the back there.
Sihanoukville port
At least the room was nice and had hot water and air conditioning.
I decide to go and drive around and have a look at some of the beaches.
The first beach was a bit too crowded for me, so i continued on.
I thought of taking a boat out, but could not find the captain.
Then I came to a very nice beach and stayed a while.
After some relaxing time on the beach, I decided to return to the coffee shop as i noted they had cheap pizza. When i got there, the first think that struck me about the menu was, that it warned you that Sihanoukville is dangerous. And that women must not carry handbags, as snatch and run theft is high in Sihnaoukville, especially near Serendipity beach. Women had been dragged over the tarred road behind a escaping thief on a motorbike, until the handbag strap broke or she let go from the pain.
I ordered a small pizza, and when it came, I was shocked. The waiter assured me that it was indeed a small pizza. The thing was so big, I took the leftovers home for breakfast. After the massive meal, i walked a bit down the road to the beach, and was passed by a guide pushing a trolly full of salted and spiced snails. They are all over Cambodia, and if you love snails, this is for you. Personally, I do not care how much you spice it, it is still like swallowing a ball of mucus.
On the way home, I took a side road and managed to get some nice twisties and had some fun. I also passed a small but stunning lake.
Tomorrow I will go and have a look at some more beaches, a local waterfall, and see what else i can find in town.
